anyone know the torque spec for metal head gasket? thanks
Fong
anyone know the torque spec for metal head gasket? thanks
Fong
I don't think you can torque a metal head gasket lol. If you mean ARP headstuds, then I would just do the recommended 100 ft/lbs as that's what I did on my 2.4 build. Make sure you get your head decked uber flat as well as your block. Metal HG's require some tight clearances, else it'll leak.
You can get a plethora of different numbers. The recomended numbers using moly lube are between 80-90 so most ten to do 85 to be safe. On the other hand others have gone up as far as 100. So me being me I take the maximum suggested 90 and the extreme 100 and came to a compromise at 95. :P
72 lbft's if using stock bolts
90-100 if using ARP studs
That is with a GOOD torque wrench
"Swilling NA beer and Leaded Fuel is my Hobbie"
I am getting married so you can have your Girlfriend back...
Chiltons says that you tighten it 58 ft/lb, untighten it, tighten to 15 ft/lb, make a mark on the bolt and tighten 180 degrees. But from what the others said im not sure thats best, but thats what the book says. :?:
Originally Posted by pycakmark
Take that chiltons manual and burn it, they are filled with bad info
factory mitsu manuals only
"Swilling NA beer and Leaded Fuel is my Hobbie"
I am getting married so you can have your Girlfriend back...
Yeah my metal head gasket went out on me. My car was over heating, i didnt pay attention to the temperture. I believe it was the radiator cap. Should i just take the head to a machine shop or should i just take both head and block for machine? This motor is my fully bulit race motor top to bottom so i dont want to make any mistake. So if anyone has any suggestion please let me know.
Thank You,
Fong
I wouldn't trust doing just a head deck on a 4layer metal. Some people take shortcuts, deck the head, then spray the metal HG with copper spray. I've never read how long that lasted, but again, I wouldn't trust it. That's also a reason why GOOD engine build shops ask you what headgasket you are using so they know what clearances to use if and when they deck the block. If this is really a fully built setup and you want to do this the right way, then you already know that cost effectivness is out the door. Pay to play, Pay to do it right.
can the machine shop deck my block with my rods and piston still in there or do i need to take them out and give them just the bare block?
Fong