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Thread: Transmission/Clutch Problem

  1. #1
    Sac DSM Member
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    Apr 2005
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    248

    Default Transmission/Clutch Problem

    Well just started having a new problem with the GST so I thought I'd ask the experts.

    I put my car back together today (had to change valve cover) and did the oil change and stuff and it was fine. I also readjusted the clutch pedal slightly out, maybe half a turn on the rod. Everything was fine, drove it from my dads house to grandparents house where I messed with it then drove to moms and back home. I went to get groceies and on the way back when I pulled into the parking lot it started making this really wierd rattling noise from the transmission I think.

    It only does it when I have my foot all the way off the clutch, in or out of gear. If I push down on it slightly it goes away and the car drives and fine. I tried adjusting the clutch rod back to where it was, and to both extremes and it would still do it....any ideas?

    I've ordered a new clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder from Nopi as my clutch has been notchy for a while now. I've adjusted the engagement point higher twice. The shifting would get really smooth for a day or so then revert back to being sort of notchy. If I adjusted it a bit higher it would smoothen up again.

    Man...now I know why everyone is selling their cars...this shit just gets old eventually...lol

  2. #2
    Sac DSM Member
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    Mar 2006
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    192

    Default

    the niose sounds like a throw out bearing. as for the adjustment problem, my 95 talon did that too. never looked into it too much cuz the car was totalled. i've heard of crank walk being the cause of that but i dont know for sure. ask oldDirty, he's the guru.
    proud SELLER of a broken DSM

  3. #3
    Sac DSM Member
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    Default

    Your pressure plate is F'ed or some fingers are worn and causing the throwout bearing to wobble.
    Or your clutch disk is broken,

    The trans has to come out.
    "Swilling NA beer and Leaded Fuel is my Hobbie"
    I am getting married so you can have your Girlfriend back...

  4. #4
    Sac DSM Member
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    Default

    Meh?

    It just got a new Act2100, Fidanza flywheel, and throwout bearing about a year ago....

  5. #5
    Proven DSM Member
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    Jul 2005
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    All depends on how its (ab)used..

    I spent a 2600 in about a year.. :)

    *Edit - And approx 40,000 miles.. (Scary to think my hands were inside that tranny 40,000 miles ago and its still holding up perfectly well.. )
    2005 WRX Sportwagon (Clickey)
    90 GSX Gone, but not forgotten....
    97 Spyder GS-t RIP
    Kneeriders.com? Satisfy the Kneed...

  6. #6
    Sac DSM Member
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    Default

    yea the rattling sound is the TO bearing. i'm not entirely sure if the fingers would be bent or anything unless you went romping on it.

    what i would do:

    check the position of your clutch fork in relation to the slave cyl. it should be more to the drivers side.
    drop the tranny
    take off the PP and clutch disc and inspect it
    take off the flywheel and inspect it and clean it really good (did you use the longer flywheel bolts with your fidanza? it's a little thicker than stock, you might want to do that.)
    replace the TO bearing with an OEM one.
    replace the pivot ball
    reinstall the clutch disc if it's good and the PP too.
    make sure you torque it down and locktite everything. i didn't locktite my pressure plate on my 2600 and it started to seperate even after it was torqued down to spec.
    Rich

    2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX

    Quote Originally Posted by OldDirtyNoSeven
    The exhaust note on those cars alone is worth the money

    its like 400 stray cats being drug behind the car but all screaming the same note.

  7. #7
    Proven DSM Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by FritosBlud
    Meh?

    It just got a new Act2100, Fidanza flywheel, and throwout bearing about a year ago....
    I agree with everyone else that it definetly sounds like the tob. If you are using the ACT tob that comes in their kit, I'm betting that is the problem. From my understanding, using the metal tob that comes in the kit isn't as useable as the OEM tob. I forgot which company (RRE?) recommends to always use a new factory tob when doing a clutch job.

  8. #8
    Sac DSM Member
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    Pull trannny.....nooooo. I just finally got it to stop leaking freaking fluid all over the place.

    Anyway. Since I put it in I've never really driven it hard. Just some wot pulls here and there getting on the freeway, never hard launched it. The TO bearing I put in was the plastic one. I put a new fork and pivot ball in when I did the clutch. The clutch fork is way to the drivers side, which I thought was kind of wierd, I always thought it was slightly more centered.

    Man I'm done with this shit if I have to drop the tranny again when I tried to do everything right the first time....f'cukin cars..bleh.

  9. #9
    Sac DSM Member
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    it should be more to the drivers side, but not WAY to the driver's side.
    if it's in the middle, that just means that something is out of place/worn (more than likely the slave cylinder) or the slave rod was extended.
    Rich

    2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX

    Quote Originally Posted by OldDirtyNoSeven
    The exhaust note on those cars alone is worth the money

    its like 400 stray cats being drug behind the car but all screaming the same note.

  10. #10
    Proven DSM Member
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    Jul 2005
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    tob's arent too affected by how hard you drive the car.. but more how much you ride the clutch.. Do you sit at stoplights with the clutch pedal depressed waiting for a green light? that kinda stuff..
    2005 WRX Sportwagon (Clickey)
    90 GSX Gone, but not forgotten....
    97 Spyder GS-t RIP
    Kneeriders.com? Satisfy the Kneed...

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