Thread: 2.4L Motor Stroker

Where does the stroker motor come from?? Where do you get the crank, rods and pistons?? Is it better to get the slowboy kit or get your parts from M & S??? If I got it from M & S how much will it cost???

Also which wideband is the best and goes with DSMLink??
John said a LM but I forgot which model, one comes with a display and one doesn't have one..

Thanks
Taylor

I hear good things about the LM. I have a PLX logged with DSMLink and I love it. It has a really small display that's easy to mount out of the way if you want to moniter the AFR in real time. The only reason I don't like the LM for DSMLink is it has all of the logging capabilities built in and that's part of the reason it's so damn BIG. I don't see the need to be able to log the AFR on the unit AND with DSMLink but maybe others have different tuning styles where this benifits them.

As for the stroker, you get a 2.4 liter block and crank (4G64 or a 6 bolt variety... can't remember the engine codes for the 6 bolts but J can tell you) regular 4G63 after market rods for the 7 bolt (4G64) or 6 bolt(others), and Wiesco custom pistons. Then you'll need a 4G64 head gasket and timing belt and everything else is pretty straight forward.

Duh, I missed that. 2.4 isn't a "stroker" even though I called it that too. 2.3 is technically a stroker like oldirty said.

So John you say 2.3 is the easist. Where do I get the parts for that??? Is it a 4G64 crank with longer rods??? Also will this pass smog if I have all of the other parts stock???

Taylor

98spydert-- I take it you have PLX M-250. M-300 is the one that has a controller. You look at your a/f ratios via DSMlink. But do you have to always be looking at them if you are happy with you tune??? If not, there is no need to buy the controller, right?? Also you see that this is the best one because it is easy.

Thanks
Taylor

I have the 300. The 250 doesn't have a display on the controller. I've also got the 52mm gauge sitting around somewhere but I've never installed it. You can use the gauge with the M250 also.

No, I ignore the AFR if I'm not tuning. I use it to tune and if the car feels funny or something out of the ordinary, I'll take a look at the display but other than that, there's no reason to watch it when daily driving or even when racing unless you're using it as a warning system. I use the knock gauge conversion with DSMLink so if I'm racing and looking for an early warning indicator, I'm looking at the knock gauge. I suppose if you're using 110+ octane fuel and the car isn't going to knock, you'd want to watch that AFR. It's a good system, hasn't given me any problems to date and is easy to install and use with DSMLink.