Thread: Log for my 2.4 engine buildup ^_^

Another forced upgrade. Never fails with these cars. I almost wanted to sell my black 1g with the hyundai motor on it but I just couldn't do that to a potential DSM'er. What makes me even more mad is that I heard a rumor that one of the previous owners of this car came to one of our meets and told Josh and a few others about how he put an n/a motor in it and it felt 'fast'! Might not be the same guy, but what are the chances....ANYWAY, I'll be keeping this thread updated as I build up this motor for those interested in doing the same and to show my ordeal (as I'm sure it will be) getting it to completion. Well, here's some starter pics. ENJOY.

PIC of the engine I got yesterday:


PIC of PROOF this IS NOT some shitty 2.0 N/A Sonata motor with scarred up bearings and cracked pistons :evil:


PIC of the casting:


Buildup Parts:

Eagle h-beams
Wiseco 2.4L .020 overbore
Clevite Main and Rod bearings
Arp Mains and heads

For anyone interested, E-bay has Eagle h-beam rods for n/a, turbo 2.0, and 2.4L engines for 300 shipped! Can't find that deal anywhere else. The other stuff will be going through our vendor SBR. Machining estimates so far from 3 different shops seem to be anywhere from 550-700. This includes

Magnaflux
Clean
Overbore & Hone
Deck
Crank balance and inspection
Freeze Plug and balance bearing blockoff

More pics when the rods/pistons come in or as progress follows :)

Manny

about how he put an n/a motor in it and it felt 'fast'

Doubt it, after I put an Attarco motor in my talon it was slow as hell, and I could never figure out why, till I heard they weren't turbo'd motors.

Hey Johnathan I'm taking the block to a shop for a build, what do you recommend? Should I take any main/piston clearance numbers to them, or would they know already what the limits are? Am I forgeting anything:

Hot Tank & Mag
Align Hone
Crank Balance
Crank Polish
.020 Overbore and Hone
Torque-plate Deck for a MLS hg
Freeze plugs
Assembly

I'm REALLY worried about the align hone and bearing install as I hear some shops don't get this right, so I want to make 100% sure I don't have to do this again. What are the chances I'll need .010 under bearings? I'd hate to order the Clevite 77 standard size bearings and them tell me I have to send them back and get under sizes (more downtime :evil: ) Any precautions you recommend?

Manny

Well I understand that we don't turn the crank since it's nitrate coated. But I've heard its recommended to Align Hone the main's so that the new clevites I'm getting set in with the thinner ARP main studs.

The last person I called quoted me 550 to do everything and assemble, AND pickup the block from my house! I'll try to get him as a sponser for the site since he sounds like he's pretty compitent with engine builds. He's based out of shingle springs.

Manny

Originally Posted by boostdork

Ahh transport costs. that makes all the difference in the world.

Price is more then competative with freight included.

Heres what I found about the align hone:

Stock Bolts good to 600hp with no/limited cap walk - Magnus
ARP Main's draw the journals out of round REQUIRING an align hone or a dead engine - 2 Machine Shops
Align hone on a healthy block with healthy caps is for the paranoid - Multiple Keyboard Tuners who dont want to pony up 150 bucks
New Bolts are all you really need untill near 4 figures - Magnus

Just some handy info i hope :)

funny, my machinist says the exact opposite of the main studs. i think theyre a good idea since the main caps arent girdled.