Thread: spec clutch Q

Well, my clutch just took a doodoo. I was thinking of getting a spec stage 2. My question is, does the flywheel have to be stepped like the ACT's? who can correctly step it for me around here ?

The flywheel is stepped in stock form,

the shop has to machine BOTH surfaces for your clutch to work right.

the measured distance between the disk surface and the pressure plate mounting surface shoule be between .610 and .612"

if its not your clutch will NEVER work right

Ok I'm a confused child right now. Here's the lowdown. I replaced my Cutch master a couple of weeks ago because it was bad. Since I'm a cheap basterd I didn't change the slave knowing very well I should have. My pedal wasn't that good to begin with but lately it seemed t have been getting worse. So I blead the system again and of course no air came out. I moved the boot back on the slave and she pucked all over me. The next day I replaced the slave at work. well went thru the bleeeding process all over again and the pedal didn't get better. The lever seemed to be moving a good distance. However my pedal wasn't great. wasn't horrible, but wasn't great. The clutch pedal is adjusted correctly BTW. Anyways the tech that was bleeding for me moved(pried) the fork all the way left and the pedal all of the sudden got great, as if I had a brand new clutch. everything seemed great till I drove it home. In normal driving it was OK, but as soon as I hit boost it would slip like I had no clutch. I babied it home and it was the same this morning. We where supposed to look at it today but where swamped with cars, so I babied it home again, sort of. I had to overtake so I accelarated and it actually gripped. I floored it a couple more times and the clutch worked fine. The car was at operating temps both days s Its not like it was cold or anything. I imagine what happened was that the piston on the slave got pulled out further then it was supposed to and filled with fluid. I would think this would normalize immidatly. i'm gonna drive her tomorrow again and see what she does. any ideas? Also, dirty, or anybody for that matter, know of anyone that can step the flywheel locally? or should I just get one ready to go from RRE?

Originally Posted by speedy13

Ok I'm a confused child right now. Here's the lowdown. I replaced my Cutch master a couple of weeks ago because it was bad. Since I'm a cheap basterd I didn't change the slave knowing very well I should have. My pedal wasn't that good to begin with but lately it seemed t have been getting worse. So I blead the system again and of course no air came out. I moved the boot back on the slave and she pucked all over me. The next day I replaced the slave at work. well went thru the bleeeding process all over again and the pedal didn't get better. The lever seemed to be moving a good distance. However my pedal wasn't great. wasn't horrible, but wasn't great. The clutch pedal is adjusted correctly BTW. Anyways the tech that was bleeding for me moved(pried) the fork all the way left and the pedal all of the sudden got great, as if I had a brand new clutch. everything seemed great till I drove it home. In normal driving it was OK, but as soon as I hit boost it would slip like I had no clutch. I babied it home and it was the same this morning. We where supposed to look at it today but where swamped with cars, so I babied it home again, sort of. I had to overtake so I accelarated and it actually gripped. I floored it a couple more times and the clutch worked fine. The car was at operating temps both days s Its not like it was cold or anything. I imagine what happened was that the piston on the slave got pulled out further then it was supposed to and filled with fluid. I would think this would normalize immidatly. i'm gonna drive her tomorrow again and see what she does. any ideas? Also, dirty, or anybody for that matter, know of anyone that can step the flywheel locally? or should I just get one ready to go from RRE?

Napa, or car quest can do it, make sure to tell them about the measurment.

Also did you remove the clutch fork when you changed the throwout bearing???

If so you might have bent the retainer clip that snaps on the pivot ball, if you did that the trans has to come back out and install a new fork, (you can never bend those things back enough to work right)

What dirty said plus I had a fork that bent badly once before it broke Causing all kinds of engagement issues..


Ive learned to just replace the damned fork while i have the tranny out now..

I haven't replaced the clutch yet since I've owned the car. I know I'm gonna have to do it soon though. I will make sure to take those precautions. Today she ran fine again. My pedal is better then before I changed the master and slave but it's not up there either. thanks for the help guys. I really don't want to do the clutch right now unless I have to. Its 500 bucks I don't have.

Dirty did my clutch years ago and the only way he could get it to stop being finiky with disengagement was an extended slave rod. Worked perfectly after that and has since.

I like to shim the pivot ball out with a washer..

Also make sure you check your pedal assembly... Its wasted on every 1g ive ever tested...

Clutch the to floor.. then after releasing slowly..

Put your toe under the pedal and pull up..

If it moves up at all youve got a few hours of being upside down and backwards crammed under your dash with your arms trapped above you..

Its a blast..

(You have to replace the clutch pedal and the little arm that connects to it.. The shaft from the pedal is keyed where it attaches to the arm that actuates the master.. The keyed connection rounds out and the two pieces can spin in eachother a bit)

Yeah I know I have play in the pedal assy.